Lala of Arabia

sigh

2009-04-18T13:56:00.003-04:00

There's something so decadent and well deserved as seeking a beach hangout after a frenetic week and a half of camping, driving, moving from location to location, adventures, adrenaline, laughter, fatigue, and wonderful experiences!

Today, after visiting the Grand Mosque, the biggest mosque in all of Oman (built in 2001), we decided to spoil ourselves with a beach afternoon. We hit the Oman Dive Center, about 20 minutes outside of Muscat. It's a resort and scuba diving center, with a beautiful beach, swimming pool, volleyball court, and complete with an Arabian tent, lounging cushions and shishas (hookahs).

We sunbathed, enjoyed a glass of wine, read, swam, and completely decompressed from the excitement of the last two weeks. It was absolutely divine to have a chance to reflect on the last two weeks of travel, the friendships that were formed and solidified, and the places and things that we've seen and done.

I was reading an excerpt from the Dalai Lama's book before I left for Oman. He was talking about religion, talking about how religions around the world were created, fundamentally, to help people satisfy their biggest needs: find happiness and end suffering. The Dalai believes that we need all these different tapestries of religion to satisfy all the quirks and characteristics of different people, and that as long as we remember the common goal, we can find a way to relate to each other, to have compassion and love for each other.

What struck me the most, I think, about my journey to Oman is that I had a chance to meet people from a religion and a culture that I knew nothing about. I experienced Muslims and Arabs in their home, and I was met with an openness and a gentleness and a warmth that was surprising and wonderful. I truly felt that I have brothers and sisters in this country, across oceans from my home, and it was a reminder to me that I can learn to be more open and more compassionate with the people in my own neighborhood and city and home.

The two weeks have seemed to pass so quickly. We did our best to cram in so many experiences, and we succeeded! But I feel like I've only just started to get my groove here. I'm comfortable with the language (well, at least the 4 phrases that I can speak: Hello, Goodbye, Thank you, You are welcome). I'm comfortable with many of the mannerisms and customs that I've observed from watching people in their home. I feel at ease with the landscape and the terrain of the country and the places/locations of cities. I feel comfortable walking into stores and shops, navigating restaurants, gas stations, and foodstuff centers. I am at ease with smiling at people who are bewildered at the sight of 4 women peeling themselves off the seats of their car and heading into a shop or a gas station, and watching them beam their smiles back in return. I absolutely loved being able to drive a 4WD across a country that was completely unfamiliar and raw.

Tomorrow, this particular journey ends. An ending which is leaving my soul full and happy and without regrets. I feel like I've been shown so much and given many gifts. And I feel so ready to take on another journey when I have the time and space and energy and opportunity!

Until our paths cross again on another journey, I wish you much happiness and lots of love.
~ Lala

Winding roads

2009-04-16T10:00:00.004-04:00

Hello from Nizwa again! We are back from two days in the mountains!

There is something about being up in the mountains, with all that fresh air, altitude (we were up at 3000 meters), just you and the elements, that makes you feel free and full of life. As we lay on our mattresses last night, propped up against cushions, in a Arabian tent at the top of a mountain peak, we reflected on how good life was. How much we had to be grateful for. And how much fun it was to be four mountain divas making the most of our time in Oman! : )

We had some fantastic hikes - a 3 hour hike that started us at Diana's view (named from Princess Diana's visits to Oman) and which brought us through 3 villages winding through the alleys and houses, through rose bushes and terraced gardens, and along falajs. The second hike was another 3 hours that took us along the rim of the Grand Canyon of Oman (Jabal Shams). It was spectacular and freaky! We were right on the edge of a huge cliff the entire time. It was an out and back hike that brought us to an abandoned village of 15 families - tucked away in the crevass of a mountain wall - near a waterfall. It was a feast for the senses.

Both hikes were food for my soul - giving me a chance to pretend I was like the goats that we walked past - running up steep, rocky sections, until my heart pounded, sweating under the scorching hot sun, and soaking up the views.

We arrived back in Nizwa around 3pm, and found the most delicious Turkish restaurant - Al Masharef! Brilliant food, huge quantities, that we gorged on until our eyes were at half mast and our stomachs were aching. After eating, we arrived at our Al Diyar just in time to meet Ali! He had flown in from Bahrain to meet us!

We are off to Nizwa souq tonight for some shopping and exploring. Tomorrow at 7am is the infamous Friday morning animal market and another wadi exploration before we head back to Muscat. The clock is ticking, so we are trying to pack in as MUCH as we can before we have to leave.

Bye for now!
~Lala

Reflections from the mountains

2009-04-14T03:15:00.005-04:00

We are just about to head off for a few days of mountainous terrain, trekking, exploring forts and souqs, seeing UNESCO heritage spots (like the ancient city of Bahla where pottery making and indigo dying has occurred for centuries) and more ...

Since I've had a fantastic sleep and a lot more energy to write, I thought I'd leave you with a couple of reflections from what and a quotation that sums up a lot of what we've discovered on this journey so far.

I've had a really amazing few days on a lot of levels. We've experienced some incredibly exhilarating things - things that I think we might be hard pressed to find in more traveled/frequented countries. There is a rawness to this country that I find very appealing. It feels rugged and rough. Oman doesn't get a lot of tourists, and people seem genuinely happy to be helpful and to smile and to enjoy our questions and interest. They want to show off their country. They want us to see it and feel it in its fullness. The country feels as if it is in its infancy, in terms of opening the doors to strangers and visitors, and the experiences we've had of total strangers opening their hearts up for us without question, has been a reminder of how we truly are brothers and sisters, regardless of our race, our religious beliefs, and our languages.

And we've met some wonderful people. We had a very interesting and unusual time in the desert with our Bedouin guide and his family - he and his wife basically left us alone with their 5 kids for about 2 hours. Despite the awkwardness of us not knowing where they were or what was expected of us (should we stay?, should we go?, etc.) we bonded with those children so naturally. I have this beautiful note from the eldest, a girl named Afeya, who was so wonderful. She said that she loved meeting us and that she loved singing with us. We sang songs with them (Oh Canada!, Doe-re-mi-fa-so-la-tee-doe), laughed, played pat-a-cake, and just enjoyed them as children - as easily and naturally as if it had been one of my nieces or nephews.

We have had some really intense (read: scary!) experiences these last three days. We jumped off a cliff in the wadi - that was hugely scary! We all fought our fears and laughed and even cried. It was pretty awesome to push through fears to discover something new about ourselves. And when we drove in the desert - 4WD driving across sand dunes at crazy speeds, doing what felt like drifting down the dunes, skidding, sliding, and gracefully making it (Amor was a GREAT driver) - all of us screaming and freaking out in the car - it was awesome!

And the country is breathtaking. I have to say that I was very powerfully moved by the ocean and the desert. Two more extreme ecosystems I can't imagine. The ocean - the pounding of the water - the reflection of the sunshine on the water - the soothing feeling of bobbing around in the waves - was so wonderful. Refreshing and soothing. Calming. The desert was so rugged - you can see for miles. The sand was incredibly soft and gentle, forming ripples and dunes that looked like waves. And the fact that you could just sit on top of a dune and watch the whole desert around you. I found it intense and powerful. It made me feel very emotional.

Today we are off to the mountains. Who knows what is in store for us there? Who knows what we will discover and what we will find out about ourselves. I'll leave you with this quotation. Be well.
~Lala

"Life always gives us
exactly the teacher we need
at every moment.
This includes every mosquito,
every misfortune,
every red light,
every traffic jam,
every obnoxious supervisor (or employee),
every illness,
every loss,
every moment of joy or depression,
every addiction,
every piece of garbage,
every breath.
Every moment is the Guru. "
- Charlotte Joko Beck

3 days of wadis, ocean, turtles and desert..oh my!

2009-04-13T13:51:00.005-04:00

Hello! It's 10pm on Monday, April 13, and a tired Lala is writing you from the town of Nizwa.

We have had the most jam-packed, exhilarating, intense, spiritual, breathtaking 3 days since I last had a chance to update the blog. We left Muscat, headed East, and we've done the following:

gone off-roading with our spiffy 4WD
hiked up the Wadi Ash Shab for 3 hours
met a guide (Said) who took us on an adventure: swimming up the three upper lagoons and into a cave
climbed up a gushing, slippery waterfall
jumped off a cliff into the lagoon!
slept outside on the beach under the stars just outside of Fins
stayed in a Barasti hut (like the Bedouin have) at Ras Al Hadd
watched green sea turtles lay eggs, bury them, and flounder off back to the ocean.
saw little hatchlings (baby turtles) make their way to the water by the light of the full moon
drove ourselves into the desert
met our Bedouin guide (Amor Ali) and his family and enjoy dinner with them all
had the ride of our lives 4WDing up and down and across the sand dunes!
rode a camel
slept under the stars on top of a sand dune (no tent)
learned about the falaj water systems (from Ali a local that wanted to show us how they worked). These systems are used to irrigate crops and bring water to houses and farms in Oman (also used in Iran and the UAE)
saw a 300 year old fort

We arrived in Nizwa around 5pm this afternoon. We are all feeling fantastic, healthy, incredibly awed by the beauty of this country and the friendliness of the people who live here and absolutely exhausted. We are spoiling ourselves with a hotel room, with a swimming pool, a chance to clean a couple of articles of clothing before heading out to the mountains of Jabal Akhdar tomorrow for hiking!

Bye for now.
~Lala

ER: Arabian style

2009-04-09T12:25:00.011-04:00

Last night, it was looking like it would be a mellow night last night. We were comfortably sprawled on the couches and chairs of our living room munching on snacks; Hana was reading, Colleen and I were playing Crazy Eight Countdown, and Jen was nursing a bit of a sore stomach. We figured we'd relax and have an early evening; get ourselves ready for our adventure.

Around 6, Jen started to be sick, and for the next 6 hours, got progressively weaker and violently sick until she had absolutely nothing left in her. At midnight, we decided we had to take her to hospital!

We called her travel insurance company, made sure they had the correct information, and got a bag packed for Jen with extra clothes, all her personal information, and other paraphernalia. Hana went down to get a cab, and Colleen and I got Jen out of bed and supported her as we walked down the hall of the hotel and into the stairwell. As we just started to head down the three flights of marble stairs, Jen collapsed. She couldn't move, was really pale and clammy, felt feverish and very dizzy, and so Colleen stayed with her and kept her calm and relaxed, while I ran down to tell Hana that we needed an ambulance.

It was a good thing that Jen wasn't in an emergency situation, because it took over 40 minutes for the ambulance to come. By this time, we were able to get her downstairs to the lobby and had situated her on a couch. She had been sick on the stairs, so we changed her clothes, covered her in a number of towels, and tried to keep her calm by cracking jokes. Jen, despite all that she was struggling with, was so amazing - strong and calm and she even laughed at our attempts at keeping things light.

Hana rode in the ambulance with Jen, and Colleen and I grabbed a taxi to follow along, because we didn't know which hospital we were going to. I have to say that the taxi driver was awful, especially given our circumstances, and demanded that we pay double the price to get to the hospital. We were not in a position to argue, since we weren't sure where the ambulance was headed, and I felt really taken advantage of. I was quite angry about it for awhile.

It was 1:14am by the time we arrived at the hospital and were taken into the emergency room. The hospital was totally empty. There were a few beds in the room that they brought Jen into. There were a few men in the waiting room. There were about a half dozen nurses and 1 doctor. And there were about 12 people cleaning the floors. A huge angry discussion broke out between the ambulance drivers, doctors and nurses. It was such an important discussion, that no one paid any attention to Jen as she lay on the gurney, so the three of us scrambled to find her extra blankets, and changed her out of her damp clothes and into some warmer things. We stayed by her side and tried to keep her calm and comfortable. All the while, we listened in confusion and tried to make out what the heck was going on. All we could understand was "protocol this" and "protocol that". For a good half hour, no one made any move to check on Jen, and finally the doctor came over and explained that she had been taken to the wrong hospital!! This was the trauma hospital - for car accidents and head injuries, etc - and so their was a debate about whether they needed to send Jen to the Royal Hospital across town, or whether they would treat her there.

The ambulance drivers came back to retrieve their gurney and Jen had to move on to the bed herself. To make it even worse, they tried to take the blankets away. I told them that she was very cold and that she needed to keep the blankets on. So they left empty handed.

A little while later, the doctor came back and explained that they would start an IV, give her some painkillers and take some blood so they could do some tests and then she would be transported by ambulance to the Royal Hospital. Jen was quite uncomfortable by this point; she was pale, feverish, and her stomach was in a lot of pain. Once she had the IV and the pain medication, she started to relax and got sleepy.

When it was time to leave, we helped her onto a wheelchair and wheeled her outside. (I have never seen a wheelchair like this one before - it had the cushions of a plastic waiting room chair on a wooden chair with wheels attached.) By this time, all of us were feeling really tired and our reaction time to stimulus was definitely a little on the slow. So we were completely flabbergasted when the nurse and ambulance driver asked Jen to get up and climb into the ambulance herself! Why they didn't take the gurney out of the ambulance is beyond me!? So there we were, propping her up as best we could and trying to maneuver her onto the ambulance, and there was Jen, holding her IV bag, trying to manage the blankets that were wrapped around her, and completely dizzy and feeble from being sick and the medication. And all the while, the nurse is in the back of the ambulance instructing Jen to "Move up. Move up." so she could be better higher up on the gurney!!

It was a long drive to the next hospital, and we arrived at 3:45am. Jen was wheeled in ER. Hana went off to handle her registration, I made sure that the new nurse had all of Jen's information about her condition, and Colleen took care of all of our packs and gear. This hospital was a little more active - about 12 beds in two rooms - and probably at half capacity. They wheeled Jen into Evaluation room #13. Once Hana came back, Jen was warming up, sleeping quite deeply, and had already gone through a full IV bag. She had more blood taken and was given more medication, and I went out to join Colleen in the Ladies Waiting Room. (The waiting rooms were separated for men and women.) Hana came and joined us and we decided that we'd take turns staying with Jen, as the two that went back to the hotel could take care of pushing out our car rental by a day and checking in for another night. I volunteered, and after the girls left, I sat on a chair by Jen's bed and tried to stay awake. Jen went through 2 more IV bags, her color had returned, she said that her stomach wasn't sore anymore. Around 5:45, the nurse told me that she had had a bad bout of gastroenteritis but was in good shape and was being discharged. YAY! Jen was ready to go. What a relief!!

Now came the fun part. Finding the taxi! After I checked her out and handed over the correct paperwork, I asked the nurse to call me a taxi. She said there were no taxis. I asked "What do you mean there are no taxis." She said there were none to call, as she didn't know the number. She asked a few other people if they knew a number, and no one knew of any. She said I could go outside and wait by the roundabout for a taxi to come, but that they didn't come very often. I was totally floored. I couldn't believe she wanted me to take Jen outside and stand at a street corner until a taxi came! I told Jen to stay on the bed and that I would go outside and see what I could find. I walked outside and saw a group of men sitting outside smoking. I asked them where to find a taxi. They said that there were none around, but if I walked about 1.5 km, I'd find a roundabout that might give me some luck.

I got them to point me in the direction, as I was going to start walking, and one of the guys (Mohammed) stood up, yawned, and said "I'll take you." I smiled and thanked him, but I told him we were staying far away, and he said "Yes, I know, I drove your sisters there this morning." I couldn't believe his generosity! He had taken Colleen and Hana home a few hours earlier, and he was offering to do the same for me and Jen. He was so sweet. I got Jen, wheeled her outside, piled us into the taxi, and we headed off. It was a good 35 min drive to our hotel, and when we arrived, I tried to thank him and give him some money for gas. He completely refused, saying that we were his "sisters" and that it was his responsibility to look after us. It was a really beautiful feeling to experience such generosity and kindness after such a long and tiring day.

Update: It's Thursday night, as I'm writing this. Jen is doing fine - she's weak and resting - but she's in great spirits. We all managed to get some sleep and feel much more refreshed and ready for our adventure tomorrow! Bye for now!
~Lala

Water-filled Wednesday

2009-04-08T12:47:00.005-04:00

Hello from Muscat! It's 9pm on Wednesday, April 8 as I write this post.

There's snow in Ottawa (or so I hear) but we had a glorious day of seeing dolphins, snorkeling and soaking up some serious sunshine (32C)!! We left around 9:30 this morning and after being on the water for no more than 10 minutes, we came across a pod of what seemed like a couple hundred common dolphins!! 200! It was amazing - they were playful, curious, having fun frolicking in the water. We must have followed along with the pod watching their antics and soaking in the spray of the water for an hour. There were even some babies hanging very closely to their mothers. They were so elegant and graceful - gliding, jumping, diving - just glistening in the water. It was a beautiful thing to see.

Then the guide drove us to a little inlet, surrounded by rocky hills. The water was jade colored - I think the white sands on the bottom of the ocean are what makes the color so vivid and intense. It was very inviting! For about an hour, we swam, looked at fish, sea cucumbers and coral. It was heavenly. The water is quite salty and it made it easy to float around. The fish were good - not outstanding - but there were enough splashes of blues and yellow to keep us entertained. I got stung by a jellyfish, had all these welts in a line around my shoulder, and it must have kept tingling for a couple of hours later. It was a really interesting feeling! The highlight of our snorkel was watching a turtle swimming underwater! We followed it as it meandered along for a little while until it was time to go.

After all that swimming and sunshine, we were starving. We had gotten a recommendation from the tour operator to hit a restaurant called Kargeen. We walked into this garden oasis - wooden chairs and tables set up under a huge shade tree, fitted with rich burgundy cushions. We had the most delicious food - biryani for Hana, buffet of salads and fish and dessert for Colleen and Jen, and hummus and moutabel (eggplant) with freshly made pita bread for me.

We sipped Turkish coffees and Chai masala, while Colleen fought off a major sleep attack from gravol that she had taken on the boat. She headed back to the hotel and we listened to Middle Eastern music (including a Middle Eastern rendition of Happy Birthday for someone in the restaurant)! It was so relaxing and restful.

After lunch, we picked up a copy of Off-road in Oman for our driving adventure. It's a detailed book that illustrates our driving routes, shows maps of how to access wadis, the mountains, and other parts of the country, offers driving tips and tricks for how to handle the drive through the wadis and the desert. Needless to say it made us all very excited!

Tonight is going to be rather low key. We've got laundry, packing, and an early bed on our agenda! Bye for now.
~ Lala

Planning for adventures

2009-04-07T10:42:00.005-04:00

Hello again from Muscat! It's 6:45pm here on this hot and sunny Tuesday, April 7th.

The four of us were spoiled with a fun evening last night! The Turkish brothers insisted that we were in "their home" and that we should be treated with all the hospitality that their guests would have. They took us to The Turkish House restaurant, in the Al Khuwayr region. The food was amazing - there were heaps of hummus, baba ganouj, long slabs of flat bread covered in sesame seeds, salad greens, spanakopita, plus the fresh grilled grouper that the girls ordered and lots of lively conversation about life, families and relationships.

Before dessert, we were introduced to the custom of soaking your hands in cologne (I kid you not) to remove the oil and flavor of the meal. The cologne was so potent (a heavy, sweet musk) that my eyes watered each time I lifted my fork to my mouth. I think the fumes actually intoxicated us because we burst into giggles each time one of us caught a scent.

Dessert was something called a Turkish Delight - cream cheese, honey, butter, served in a cake style, baked with shredded wheat on top, accompanied with a Turkish coffee (yum!). After we finished our meal, and haggled over who would pay (realizing that it was very North American of us to be so pushy), we left for the Intercontinental Hotel, and the Trader Vic's bar. Trader Vic's is designed in the Tahitian style - lots of bamboo, tropical fixtures, women dressed in Hawaiian print dresses. They had a live band playing Spanish music - so we took up residence on the makeshift dance floor and danced for hours! In between sets, we sat outside and chatted about jobs and traveling and other hobbies.

Around midnight, we headed back to our hotel. We were pretty wound up from dancing, coffee, jet lag and sugary drinks, so we stayed up for a few hours talking and catching up. It was well after 3 before the girls went to bed. I think I stayed up a couple of hours longer before crashing.

Needless to say, we woke up at noon. Oops! All of us were feeling ready to depart Muscat and head for some new adventures, so we headed over to the Muscat Diving and Adventure Center to plan the rest of our trip. After a few hours of deliberation, appropriately over a delicious Lebanese meal of falafel & hummus and meat for the girls, we made the following decisions.

- Stay in Muscat another day so that we can go snorkeling/dolphin watching tomorrow (Wed)
- Then the four of us are going to hire a car (a 4wd!) and all our camping equipment and head West of Muscat to Wadi Al Abyad. We'll camp there overnight (for the full moon!). (Thurs)
- Head Southeast to Wadi Ash Shab and Wadi Tiwi and camp again overnight on the beach. The wadis are great to explore as there are villages situated in them, fresh water holes to swim, and lots of lush greenery to see. (Friday)
- Head to Ras Al Jinz to watch the turtles at 9pm. The turtles bury their eggs in the sand to keep cool during the day, and at night, the eggs hatch and the turtles take the little turtles to the water for a swim. That night, we'll sleep in some funky barasti huts. (Sat)
- Head to the desert! We'll meet up with a guide along the road, and he'll take us to a Bedouin family in the desert. We'll pitch our tents near this family. If we prefer, we can just sleep out in the open under the stars on mattresses!! (Sun)
- Head to Nizwa, and the mountain region, where we will spend three days hiking, seeing old forts and sites, traveling through the mountains. We'll stay in that area so that we can time seeing the Bedouin's bring all their livestock to the market at 7am on Friday. (Mon-Thur)
- After the market, we'll head back to Muscat and figure out what we want to do when we get there.

This is pretty adventurous traveling for all of us, and I'm so excited! We are getting some detailed directions and instructions - but from what we've heard, read and seen, it's a safe place to travel around. The roads are in great condition, there are a lot of gas stations around, and we are getting good at asking for directions. Also, it's Easter in Europe, so the roads and Wadis should be full of other travelers.

Hopefully, I'll have a chance to check in over the next few days!
Bye for now.
~ Lala

al-salaam alaikum (hello!)

2009-04-06T09:36:00.015-04:00

Hello from Muscat!! As I'm writing this, it's 5:38pm on Monday April 6th. I'm writing from a business center computer at the Ramsee hotel next door to the Qurum Beach hotel, where we are staying in Muscat.

The weather is hot (32 C) and sunny. The skies are clear and blue. It's absolutely gorgeous here, right by the ocean, and we have already had a very eventful day and a half!

Our journey to Muscat began around noon on Sat. We drove to Montreal, had tea and dessert with Hana's lovely parents, got a lift to the airport, and boarded our flight at 6:25pm. The flight was long (3 hour layover in Amsterdam, 1 hour wait on the tarmac in Abu Dhabi) but lovely - Jen, Hana and I sat together, toasted our impending vacation with copious amounts of red wine, and alternated between watching movies, playing video games, reading and sleeping. (KLM offers 10 video games and about 30 movies to choose from!)

We arrived in muggy Muscat around 9pm on Sunday. We had to wait for a bit to purchase our 1 month visa, and hopped on a taxi to the city. First impressions of the city at night - hot and humid temperature, beautifully smooth and clean highways, impressive white stucco buildings rising out of the flat lands completely lit up by flood lights, and lots of fancy cars.

We got to our hotel and met Colleen (who had just arrived herself after spending a day walking around and seeing the sites). We are staying in a 3 bedroom suite for three days, and the hotel and hotel rooms are fashioned in total 70s decor - lots of chunky brass mirrors, old fixtures, and quirky bathrooms fitted into small closets and cupboards. It's a great hotel - cool, clean, with friendly staff and the beds are incredibly comfortable.

We cleaned up and decided to take a walk to a Japanese restaurant that we saw along the beach (Japengo cafe). As we left, we met a very friendly man named Ali Mushaima who offered to drive us there. He is from Bahrain and was touring around Oman, writing a book about the top 101 things to do in Oman. We declined his offer of a lift because we wanted to move our legs, but accepted his invitation to join him for tea later so he could show us his photos and his Friendship Arabia Web site. [Check it out: www.friendshiparabia.com]

Dinner was delicious - we sat outside on a beautiful patio - and enjoyed some tasty dinner and ice-cold bottled water and lots of conversation. After walking back to our hotel, Ali called us and we met him in the lobby. Turns out Ali and his crew travel by car (Land Rover) all across the Middle East and Europe. He's published a number of magazines/books (Dubai to Dublin, Bahrain to Britain, 101 things to See and Do in Yemen) and is working on the new Oman travel guide. He does most of the photography, and has a team of photographers and writers who travel with him - chronicling the journey; the places the go and the people that they meet. And they meet tons of people! He showed us his photographs and talked about getting sponsorship for his adventures from national tourism organizations, GPS companies, Land Rover, etc. WHAT FUN!

It was about 11:30pm when we packed it in, as my eyes were crossing with fatigue, and we all wanted to get a good night's sleep before the next day.

Colleen and Hana woke up around 9am and got me out of bed so that we wouldn't miss breakfast (my favorite meal of the day). Jen was still exhausted so we let her sleep a little longer. We met up with Ali and one of his writers, Takah and spent a good hour or so talking about his travel adventures. They are off to Greece and Macedonia for a month this summer, and he was trying to tantalize us into being a part of his travel crew! (Can you imagine!?) He and his team left about an hour later, but not before we had a photo shoot with Ali, Takah, and the professional photographer Haider. (Maybe our picture will end up in the Oman book!?)

We packed up our gear and decided to walk to Muttrah, about 8km away. In the heat, we took our time, drinking lots of water, snapping photographs along the way of the interesting architecture and mosques, the ocean and the Muscat McDonald's. After about 2 hours of walking, we had hit a major highway, with no sidewalk and a very small shoulder, and we decided to grab a taxi. Good thing we did, because he took a completely different direction (we were on the wrong road)! We would have been walking for a while. HAHA.

We got to Muttrah, and settled in for some food. I enjoyed some yummy hummus, fatoush salad, and a fresh lime soda. Mmmm... We walked around the infamous souq for a bit, but it was 2pm, and the shops were closing for the afternoon nap time. Stores are open from 8am-1pm, and again from 4-9pm. We walked along the ocean boardwalk for a bit until we decided to take a taxi back to the hotel and go swimming.

The Crowne Plaza hotel is just up the road from our hotel, so we thought we could splurge and use their swimming pool for a couple of hours, but the $30 US (10 Oman Rial) charge, per person, was a bit steep for us, so we walked down to the beach and immersed ourselves in the glorious warm ocean water. It felt so good to float there for a while, and get the sweat and stickiness off ourselves. When we got out of the water, and while we were sunning ourselves to dry off our clothing, we met two friendly Turkish brothers. One brother (Cihan) lives in Dubai and was showing his other brother (Haakan) around Oman/Dubai. They were super friendly, inviting us to visit Dubai with them and to travel to Turkey and visit Haakan. Turns out they've got a 7-seater SUV, and are heading to Sur in a couple of days, which is what we are thinking about doing, so we may decide to join up with them and get a lift!

It's 2 hours before dinner, and we are taking a bit of break, so I'm going to go grab my book and chill out. I'll write again when I have the chance. Bye for now!

~ Lala : )

final checklist

2009-04-03T14:14:00.005-04:00

packing - done!

work day - almost done!

call my family - mostly done!

get totally wound up and wish I was on my way - done!

Hopefully Oman is wired and I'll be able to update this blog regularly.
For now, I'll leave you with a thought:

"I have found adventure in flying, in world travel, in business, and even close at hand. Adventure is a state of mind - and spirit."
~ Jacqueline Cochran

Be wild!

~ Lala

Oman Daily Observer

2009-04-02T12:19:00.017-04:00

I've been watching a lot of the Supernatural TV series. I'm actually really hooked by it. I love that it deals with paranormal activity; that the main characters are tasked with tracking down the urban legends that we grew up with (Bloody Mary, poltergeist, the woman in white, etc) and providing an explanation for them.

The two brothers in this show, Dean & Sam, spend a great deal of time reading local newspapers for information. This information gives them leads on unexplained events. It also provides them with research into the local community and the people that live there.

I decided to do something similar for Oman. The BBC News Web site had a great page on Oman, including facts about the country, its leader, and media. One of the media links sent me to the Oman Daily Observer newspaper.

I checked out Columns, because I thought it would be a good way to get editorial commentary about events and activities that might be happening in the country.

Here's what I found, an article titled Daughters of Today

"JUNIOR’S SISTER is so ambitious that she wants to become a motor vehicle technician. To me this is so surprising and so unexpected. Her mother too wonders how she can opt for such a career, which is male-dominated. She is going to lose all her beauty. No nail polish, no hair treatment and no more tender skin. But this girl seems to ignore all that woman talk and wants to stick to her guns. She is so determined that she wants to enrol way before time. This daughter of mine, whom I consider to be an investment because one day some young man will come, asking for her hand with a bag full of money, seems to want to believe that what boys can do, girls can too. Her mother is worried that coping at such institute would not be easy being a female.

The male students would want to tease her. But she is known to be a hard nut to crack. Mechanical engineering is a good career to take. She is particularly lured to this type of training because ‘theories get spiced with practical’ — You get to dismantle and reassemble engines, which one can enjoy so much. Other girls could as well be encouraged to enter such fields by introducing incentives and promising them employment opportunities. How many of them go through life holding on to a belief that they cannot do something simply because they think that they will fail. How many of them refuse to attempt doing something because of their mindset?

As a parent one might realise that no matter what you teach your children in the end it will be their decision what they choose to walk away with. Nevertheless, my intention is to raise a strong and competent daughter. When the sister of Junior becomes a woman, I want to be contented in my mind that not only do I love her because she is my daughter; but that I like her as a woman and for that to happen she must be as tough and capable as men could be. She is a promise of a better world. When she was born, she looked at us with sweet newborn eyes as a world to her; and therefore we have a responsibility to model the world we want her to inherit. Daughters need to be provided with enlightening, empowering and encouraging advice on gaining success and significance.

With gender preference still prevalent, daughters of today need encouragement and motivation to achieve their God-given potential. For many girls, the kind of environment they grow up in determines their careers. The aim should be to develop the capacity of young women to engage more actively in the transformation of their socio-economic status in an environment based on respect for women’s worth, rights, empowerment and gender equality. There is a need for young women to develop personal empowerment skills and change their negative image of social worth, as a way of enhancing their opportunities. Understanding one’s self-worth ultimately contributes towards the expansion of socio-economic as well as leadership choices and opportunities.

If you look around you will see how domestic roles have been defined with gender-based mindset. Lack of understanding and self expression is a problem. See, for example, how many families have broken up because a woman has not borne a baby boy? Girls think they can’t do ‘men’ jobs because they have been made to believe so. Parents could play an essential role of letting girls be kids as much as boys by treating them the same. Girls need to also have social intelligence and differentiate between perspective and realities. Most of the gains in gender equality and empowerment are brought about by women themselves by being active hence the call of all women is to enhance their rights."

Except for this sentence (which reminds me about some of the culture differences!): "This daughter of mine, whom I consider to be an investment because one day some young man will come, asking for her hand with a bag full of money..." this article could have been in the Ottawa Citizen. It's about changing roles, changing identities, growth, expectations, societal norms. All the things we deal with in North America on a daily basis.

I love seeing an example of just how similar we are no matter where we live!

~ Lala

Fun facts

2009-04-01T12:17:00.005-04:00

Oman is officially known as the 'Sultanate of Oman'.
Oman, the capital of Muscat, is also the country's largest city.
The official language of Oman is Arabic. Apart from that, English, Baluchi, Urdu, Hindi and other dialects are also spoken.
Oman follows the system of 'Absolute Monarchy'.
Oman gained independence from the Portuguese empire in 1651.
Omani Arab is the main ethnic group in Oman, followed by Indian, Pakistani, Sri Lankan and Bangladeshi. Iranian, Egyptian, Somali.
In the past, Oman used to be one of the richest countries in the world, with the wealth mainly originating from the incense trade.
In Oman, Frankincense trees only grow in the wild.
It is said that Ubar, the legendary city believed to be in control of Frankincense trade, got buried under the desert. The reason cited for this is that its wealth made people astray and led them away from religion.
There is a shrub in Oman, known as myrtus communis or yas. Its leaves are used for making perfume.
Oman was the home of ship building thousands of years ago, when it was mainly involved in the incense trade.
Oman is traditionally known for breeding Arab horses.
Omani men wear long robes known as dishdashas, while the womenfolk wear Omani burqa masks.
Omani men can be found wearing the traditionally curved dagger, known as khanja. Their national dress also includes the 'turban'.
Oman joined the League of Arab States in 1971.
The national flag of Oman, adopted in 1971, is red, white and green.
Oman joined the United Nations in 1971.
Oman allowed tourists to enter its territory only at the beginning of the 1990s.
Every two years, an Omani person is chosen by UNESCO, for the most noteworthy contribution to environment. He is then awarded a prize by the ' Sultan of Oman'.

3 more sleeps.

~ Lala

Questions, questions, questions

2009-03-30T16:21:00.009-04:00

When I tell people that I am traveling to Oman, I'm typically bombarded with questions. I thought I'd use this post to answer some of them.

Q: Why did you choose Oman? (This question generally comes right after, "Where is Oman?")
A: At first, we looked at traveling to West Africa (Benin, Senegal). Since April is the rainy season, we decided that the risk of heavy rains and flooding was too high. We didn't want to get stuck in a tiny fishing village for 2 weeks, unable to travel around and see the rest of the country, so we looked at Northern Africa (Morocco, Tunisia), Eastern Africa (Egypt) and parts of the Middle East (Jordan, Petra, Turkey). We wanted a country that matched these criteria: a) no one had been there already, b) no one wanted to travel there in the future with a significant partner/family member and c) it was a country that was traditional and authentically Middle East, but safe enough for women to travel around alone. We focused our attention on some of the other countries in the Middle East (Saudi, UAE, Yemen) and, thanks to Hana's superb research skills, found Oman.

Q: What are you looking forward to the most about your trip?

A: For me, I can't wait to be in the desert. To sleep overnight in a tent on the sand. To experience the breathtaking heat, dryness and spiritual magic that I find in the desert. And I can't wait to ride a camel!

Q: Do you have to wear a veil/burqa while you are there?

A: To be respectful to the locals, we have to dress conservatively and ensure that our shoulders and knees are not bare. In the hotels, we can be more relaxed with shorts/t-shirts, but outside of the hotels, and especially in the smaller villages, we will be covering ourselves up.

Q: How long of a flight is it to get there? What is your flight path?
A: We fly from Montreal to Amsterdam to Abu Dhabi to Muscat. We leave at 6:25pm on Saturday April 4 and arrive at 8:55pm on Sunday April 5th. (This includes the +8 hours time difference between Ottawa and Oman).

Q: Is alcohol permitted in Oman?
A: From what I've read, alcohol is permitted in restaurants and hotels in Oman. Local businesses can purchase a liquor permit to purchase alcohol, but individuals cannot. Travelers arriving in Oman are allowed to bring 1 bottle of wine into the country.

If you have other questions, please send them to me or post them in the comments. I'd be happy to try and answer them for you.
~ Lala

5 more sleeps!

2009-03-30T10:06:00.002-04:00

I'm excited! Do I really need to say anything more?

~ Lala

Packing list

2009-03-27T08:25:00.003-04:00

For those Type A/planner folk, and you know who you are, you may be curious to know what I'm going to be stuffing into my navy blue 55L Vaude backpack for this trip!

Thanks to Hana and her world travels, I had a list to start with, and I modified it a bit for myself:

Clothes
Hat or cap
sunglasses
Bathing suit (if bringing a bikini then you may also want to bring a one piece or tankini as well if you have it)
1 pr zip off pants, 1 pr trekking pants
1 long skirt
3 t-shirts (not sleeveless)
2 long sleeved cool tops
1 sweater
1 rain jacket
1 pj
underwear/bras/socks
2 prs sandals
hiking boots

Other stuff
Airline ticket or e-ticket
Passport
Cash / travellers cheques / credit cards
International drivers license and Canadian driver's license (if required)
Medical insurance docs (if you have them)
Address book (for postcards)
Camera and accessories including recharger
Advil
Antihistamines (just in case I get allergies)
Handiwipes
Toilet paper for public bathrooms/ kleenex
Sunscreen
Lip balm with sunscreen
Bug spray
Soap / shaver / Shampoo and conditioner
Toothbrush, toothpaste and floss
Lotion
Makeup
Electricity adapter / converter
iPod and recharger w/ adapter
Small flashlight and batteries (always useful)
Playing cards, frisbee, etc.
Journal
Books / magazines (please don't bring Cosmopolitan or we'll get searched at the airport) :-)
Lonely Planet book

8 more sleeps!
~ Lala

a little teaser from Jen

2009-03-26T15:35:00.008-04:00

Folks, please welcome Jen. Jen wanted to post a little tantalizing teaser today....

So...it's getting harder to concentrate at work with only 9 sleeps left until we leave!

I keep finding myself daydreaming of our upcoming trip to Oman! My thoughts are carrying me away to the ocean...I can almost hear the waves softly crashing up on the beach! I can just image the heat from the sun hugging my body and the warm breeze blowing my hair off my face....and I feel so free....

...ok...back to work now =)

Thanks, Jen!

~ Lala

Water in the Desert

2009-03-24T07:28:00.007-04:00

Oman has 1700km of coastline, which means that it is full of beaches! According to some of the books I've read, Oman offers some of the cleanest, most stunning beaches in the world. Few are private, and there are many coves that are perfect for snorkeling. Diving is also quite popular and many areas of the country advertise that you can swim or kayak with dolphins. In the Muscat capital area alone, there are 4 beaches!

Shell beach
Qurum beach
Bandar Jissah
Marjan

These beaches are ripe with coral reefs, sea life, and rock formations perfect for exploring. Add sunshine and you've got one happy wannabe surfer girl! ; )

Oman, despite being a very hot, arid country, also has a number of other bodies of water in the interior. Wadis, dried up riverbeds found in the mountain valleys, are filled up after heavy rains, when the rivers start running again and the vegetation is restored. However, some wadis have year-round running water, with deep, cool pools in which it is quite safe to swim if the currents are slow.

On the whole, wadis are only accessible with a four-wheel drive vehicle, as the terrain can be extremely bumpy. Wadis are green, lush oases of palm trees, grasses, and flowering shrubs. Although they are beautiful places, they are often remote and should be visited in large groups or with a guide, because car breakdowns can happen to anyone. Visitors must also be on the alert for rain clouds, as sudden downpours can lead to flash floods, which are highly dangerous when in the gorges.

Oman is also home to hot and cold springs and aflaaj (singular falaj) which are the systems built for the distribution of water; commonly used to describe the irrigation channel system downstream of the water's source.

Some aflaaj in Oman were built more than 1,500 years ago; others were built at the beginning of the 20th century. The Omani builders tunneled into the ground to a depth of dozens of meters, in some cases, to gain access to the groundwater. I'm hoping we get a chance to see how these were built and what they look like when we tour some of the old forts.

There are also hot and cold springs in several areas of the country. The best known hot springs are in Rustaq and Nahkl, whilst the most beautiful cold spring is Ain Razat in Salalah.

I posted a couple of pictures of beaches so you can see how gorgeous they look! I can't wait!

Only 11 more sleeps!
~ Lala

Driving in Oman

2009-03-20T10:16:00.008-04:00

I've read some interesting and funny tidbits about driving in Oman that I want to share:

Vehicles are driven on the right side of the road, and it's compulsory to wear seat belts.
It's actually illegal to drive around in a dirty car in Oman. You may get stopped by the police who can fine you OMR5, although they are more likely to just tell you to wash your ride.
Driving around Oman in your own rented car is quite easy. A six-lane highway connects Muscat and Nizwa and a single lane partially lit road, goes from Muscat to Sur.
There are still large parts of the Sur - Muscat route that has no mobile phone signal. If you break down be prepared to wait it out or hitch a ride to the next town and find a mechanic to bring back to your vehicle.
Driving at night may be hazardous because of the risk of hitting camels that stray onto the road.
Women should wear a headscarf when driving in these parts as it aids in deterring local males from following your vehicle and trying to make contact with you while you are driving. Yes this does happen, and there seems to be nothing discouraging them. They are friendly, but don't seem to understand that this kind of attention is unwanted.
If you intend to drive in wadis (unsealed valley roads in river beds) a 4WD is highly desirable. You can never be sure how the road will be and if it starts raining the wadis will turn into rivers quickly.
Oman has been experiencing severe flash flooding annually, since about 2001. The force of the water rushing down the rock hard treeless mountains can push cars and 4WDs off the road and upside down. So be careful! If you see dark clouds or rain starts, then find high dry ground, shelter and stay put.
If you managed to get a map of Oman makes sure you understand that maps generally reflect how Oman would like to have the roads. Some roads might be drawn as well-built streets but are not even paved. Roads not being visible on the map might just end and may even be painted till the end!

The Royal Oman Police even have an online test so that people are aware of the 4 categories of traffic signs: guiding, mandatory, preventative and warning. Test yourself here: http://www.rop.gov.om/english/trafficsignsmain.asp

Tentative Itinerary

2009-03-17T16:43:00.011-04:00

Our Oman itinerary is something that we've agreed will be subject to flights of fancy, changing moods, money (or lack thereof), new people we meet, tantalizing adventures we decide we have to take, energy levels, the heat of the sun, etc...

...basically we are leaving this trip open to interpretation. : )

We do, however, have a couple of planners who have insisted that we have a rough idea of where we might like to go and the things that we might be interested in doing.

So, I thought I'd share it with you.

Apr 5 - Arrive in Oman, settle in.
We fly from Montreal to Amsterdam to Kuwait to Muscat. We leave Montreal at 6:25pm on April 4th and arrive in Muscat, Oman at 8:50pm on April 5th.

Apr 6 - Explore Muscat, find local guide company and get set up.
Muscat city tour: The walled city of Muscat lies in a small bay, guarded by the spectacular twin forts of Mirani & Jalali. His Majesty Sultan Qaboos's Palace - Al Alam - is an admirable sight.

The tour of the National and Natural History Museums is an introduction to Oman's history, fauna and flora.
Muttrah, part of the capital area, is the lively, busy trading port of the area. Its main attraction, Souq Al Dhalam - "Market of Shades" - is a labyrinth of alleyways covered by a palm roof and lit by lanterns, leading to the delights of antiques, gold, old silver, traditional handicrafts, jewellery and the rich scent of frankincense.

Apr 7 - In the morning, kayak with the dolphins, then further explore Muscat.

Apr 8 - Head to Nizwa, approx 2 hours from Muscat. Explore the Nizwa fort and souq (market).
Depart for Sinaw Souq - lively and vibrant. It constitutes the main meeting place for the Bedouin. Here camels, goats and calves are auctioned and bartered. Bedouin women in traditional dress, complete with shiny metallic face-mask (burqa) trade side by side with the men. In some of the silver shops you can still find the traditional old silver Bedouin jewellery.

Apr 9 & 10 - Head to Jebel Shams - Oman's highest mountain, and Wadi Ghul - Oman's Grand Canyon for some hiking.

Apr 11 - Head to Sharqiya region.

The rich waters off the coast of Oman abound in wildlife. It is home to more than 20 species of whales and dolphins. Coral reefs stretch along the coastline, where the sea provides an abundance of fish.

Apr 12 & 13 & 14 - Overnight Bedouin camping / trekking, with some sand-boarding or sand-skiing. Perhaps see a local camel race. The isolated Wahibah Sands, traditional home of the Bedouin, has the largest area of fossilised sand dunes in the world. Covered by surface dunes, these dunes are exposed as the Sands reach the coast in the south.

Apr 15 & 16 & 17 - More snorkelling, take a Dhow (boat) ride, chill on the beach, explore Sur.

Apr 18 - Head back to Muscat

Apr 19 - Leave for home - booo!

Etiquette in Oman

2009-03-13T11:57:00.002-04:00

I've had a lot of questions about what the culture is like in Oman, so I did a little research on social etiquette.

Oman is a traditional Muslim country, whose hospitality and warmth of nature is remarked upon by all who visit. The Omani people are friendly, and although Arabic is their main language, English is spoken frequently and is often used as the language of choice. As in most Middle East countries, religion is the center of the culture. It dictates everything: dress, hygiene, diet, everything. The approach to life is "Inshallah", which literally means "Allah willing".

Despite their relaxed air, the Omanis are quite conservative people and respect for their privacy and, in particular, their religion, should always be observed. This generally means (for men and women alike) that no bare legs or shoulders should be visible. Women should wear loose, long garments, ensuring that their shoulders and knees are covered. Men should wear long trousers and tops with sleeves. (I'll describe the clothing in greater detail in another post.) Women should cover their heads before entering a mosque and all should remove shoes.

There are also specific social and religious rules that govern contact between the sexes. Although men and women may interact in public, their contact should always be chaperoned or in the open. Even educated elite women often find it necessary to be chaperoned by a male relative at public events, parties, or receptions. Public hand-holding etc and kissing are frowned upon and it is respectful to observe this taboo.

Omanis tend to stand close to one another as Arabs do, and it is common for friends and relatives of the same sex to hold hands. Two or more men or women entering a doorway at the same time always try to persuade the others to enter first, although a man always invites a woman to enter first.

A very important part of Omani culture is hospitality. If invited into an Omani house, a visitor is likely to be greeted with a bowl of dates, kahwa (coffee withcardamom - standard Arabic قهوة) and fruit. The coffee is served fairly weak in a small cup, which should be shaken after three servings to show that you have finished. The dates are in lieu of sugar. Halwa and other sweets are often given at celebrations such as Eids.

Alcohol is available only in select restaurants and large hotels and is usually very expensive. Only tourists are allowed to drink alcohol. Drinking is illegal for all Omani citizens. Drinking alcohol in public is strictly prohibited.

Staring is quite common in Oman; children, men and women are likely to stare at you simply for being a foreigner, especially if you travel off-season and in out-of-the-way places. This is not meant as an insult, it rather shows an interest, and a friendly smile will leave the kids giggling and showing off, and the adults happily trying out their few English phrases.

~ Lala

the cast of characters

2009-03-10T20:47:00.011-04:00

I've talked a little about the country and the food of Oman, but let me take a few moments to introduce you to the cast of characters that are traveling on this trip. I've known Hana for 9 years now. We've had many adventures together through work, adventure racing and search & rescue, but the one adventure we have yet to experience is to travel together. I've known Colleen for a few years, mostly through Hana's circle of friends and via Hana's worldwide travel adventures with her. I met Jenn just last year; we've had a couple of fun weekend activities of camping and skiing/boarding at Tremblant.

It should be a great dynamic - 4 women with varied backgrounds, life experiences, and outlooks. 4 women who are excited about traveling to such an exotic and unfamiliar destination; a place and a culture that simply lends itself to many opportunities for us to grow, share, stretch our boundaries, and laugh.

I asked each of the travelers to write up a little blurb about themselves, so that you all can get to know us a bit better.

Hana

who are you? Hana. Alpha female core with a zen wrapper.

why do you want to go to Oman? For the swarma. I am on a lifelong pursuit of the best ever chicken swarma sandwich. I'm hoping Oman doesn't disappoint.

what do you hope to get out of the experience? A farmer's tan. Some good stories. A cool piece of art for my home. Time with my fave girlfriends.

and something that we perhaps should know about you before we leave? I hog the blankets but not the bed. I overpay for everything. I think that every country has good beer but only a few have good wine. I love to go to peoples' home while traveling so I've seen how taxi drivers live the world over.

Colleen
who are you? COLLEEN. Aka crazy colleen, moker (Ed. note: apparently there is a story in there....)

why do you want to go to Oman? For a new adventure, new food (and Hana, I now don't mind my food touching), new drinks, new culture

what do you hope to get out of the experience? Time with girlfriends from home, some good 'ol Canadian TLC (I so miss it loads) and getting a new FRIDGE MAGNET (Ed. note: apparently there is fridge magnet criteria that we need to be aware of), mingling with some locals (safe ones, that is), seeing the best of Oman.

and something that we perhaps should know about you before we leave? My travel idiosyncrasies, I guess, are that I flush the toilet at night, I do have a small bladder so have to stop and pee a lot, I also love a bargain!

Jenn

who are you? Jennifer, aka Jenn. I'm a planner but hoping this trip will help me break the habit and become more of a free spirit ;-)

why do you want to go to Oman? To experience a different part of the world, meet interesting people, taste new food and drinks and see amazing sites!

what do you hope to get out of the experience? To learn something new about myself and have an amazing adventure with 3 awesome women. See something that takes my breath away. Ride a camel, snorkel, hike and camp in the desert, ooh and be fed olives by an Arabian Prince :)

and something that we perhaps should know about you before we leave? Haha..many of the same..small bladder and a terrible sense of direction, I get lost in a parking lot ;) And most importantly ...I get cranky when I'm hungry ;-)

Lisa
who are you? Lisa, aka lala, sometimes known as dharma. I'm a wannabe hippie who loves the idea of packing up a backpack (albeit a 55L backpack) and hitting the road to see where it leads me.

why do you want to go to Oman? I've never been to the Middle East. I want to change my perceptions about a part of the world that I've only ever read about. I want to live it. And in my own naive way, I want to make a friend or two along the way. You never know!

what do you hope to get out of the experience? On some secret level, I hope the four of us get invited to visit the Sultan; that we get a chance to take a tour of his castle, his harem, and dine with him over a midday lunch on huge golden cushions. Even, if that doesn't happen, I'd like to have some EPIC adventures with 3 amazing women - opportunities to laugh and explore - I'd like to sleep out in the desert, ride a camel (or attempt to ride one), meet a Bedouin, hike in the mountains, shop at souq, swim in the Arabian Ocean, and go sand boarding on the sand dunes, and so on...

something you should know about me before we leave? I have a terrible sense of direction. I get turned around easily and often... but it often leads me on the most amazing adventures.

Sounds like quite the cast! This adventure is ripe for the making.
Only 3.5 more weeks to go!
~ Lala

Food

2009-03-10T14:04:00.006-04:00

I love food and one of the joys of traveling to an new destination is to unfurl the often complex traditions and culture around food.

Food is such an integral part of community and culture, and getting a little peek into the tapestry of how people eat and what they eat can reveal a lot about the people of a country.

From what I've read, Omani cuisine revolves around rice. The morning meal is typically not large, often consisting of bread or leftovers from the day before, and tea.

The main meal of the day is in early to mid-afternoon and I'm guessing it's followed by a long snooze! ; ) It is generally a large dish of rice with a thin tomato-based sauce and meat or fish. Pork does not exist in the Omani diet as it is prohibited by Islam. Some dishes that I found described are:
Marak - vegetable curry
Kebabs - barbecued, grilled and curried meat, chicken and fish dishes.
Mashuai - a meal comprising whole spit-roasted king fish served with lemon rice.
Maqbous - a rice dish, tinged yellow with saffron and cooked over a spicy red or white meat.

The evening meal is generally very light, sometimes consisting only of fruit or bread and tea.

Traditional Omani cuisine is prepared with use of various marinades, spices, herbs, onion, garlic and lime. Everyday Omani cuisine includes a wide variety of soups prepared from vegetable, lentil, lamb and chicken. Salads are also popular and are usually based around fresh vegetables, smoked eggplant, tuna fish, dried fish or watercress.

Breads rage from the plain to those flavored with dates, sesame, thyme and garlic. The Rukhal bread is a thin, round bread originally baked over a fire made from palm leaves. It is eaten at any meal, typically served with Omani honey for breakfast or crumbled over curry for dinner.

Dates, fresh or dried, are important to the diet and to the ritual of hospitality. Equally critical is helwa, a sweet confection based on clarified butter, honey, and spices. Both are served to guests with strong, bitter, and often cardamom-scented coffee.

I'm drooling from the thought of enjoying garlic, onion, lemon, olive oil, good bread, dates, fruit, vegetable curry, coffee, and honey. My vegetarian belly should be very happy.

~ Lala

Ahlan wa salan! (Welcome!)

2009-03-09T14:00:00.009-04:00

The four Muscat-eers* (Hana, Colleen, Jenn and I) are heading to Oman on April 4th to spend a couple weeks exploring a country that is nestled deep in the heartland of the Middle East.

Bordered by the United Arab Emirates (on the Arabian Ocean side), Yemen and Saudi Arabia (on the Red Sea side), Oman is a small country with a rich cultural and geographical diversity. Picture mountain villages clutched against canyon walls, clusters of dates weighing heavy in trees, a ribbon of sand blowing across the dunes, a lone camel padding across the dusty interior... these are just some of the experiences of the senses I am hoping to have!

Here are a few facts of the country that you might be interested to know:

Population: 3.2 million, based on a 2007 census
Size: 119, 500 square miles (about the size of the state of Nevada)
Capital city: Muscat (population 620,000)
Government: Sultanate
Head of State: Sultan Qaboos bin Sa’id (since 1970)

Miscellaneous: Good roads link nearly every town in the country, every region has modern health care facilities, and all Omani citizens are given free primary and secondary education. Oman has gained an international reputation for being a peaceful, settled nation, loyal to Arab neighbours whilst maintaining close, friendly ties with Western countries, particularly the UK.

How's that for a teaser for now. Stay tuned for more tidbits as I count down the days!
~ Lala

* I love puns, and I couldn't resist that groaner. ; )

Lala of Arabia

*sigh*

Winding roads

Reflections from the mountains

3 days of wadis, ocean, turtles and desert..oh my!

ER: Arabian style

Water-filled Wednesday

Planning for adventures

al-salaam alaikum (hello!)

final checklist

Oman Daily Observer

Fun facts

Questions, questions, questions

5 more sleeps!

Packing list

a little teaser from Jen

Water in the Desert

Driving in Oman

Tentative Itinerary

Etiquette in Oman

the cast of characters

Food

Ahlan wa salan! (Welcome!)

sigh